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Pure Pearls Glossary

Solder

Clasps & ConstructionAlso called soldering, joint, seam

The alloy used to join two pieces of metal with heat. Every join in a piece of jewellery is a solder seam.

Jewellery solder is matched to the metal and comes in grades that melt at different temperatures, so several joins can be made near each other without the earlier ones reopening.

A good seam is invisible after finishing. A visible line, a pit or a colour difference indicates a poor join.

Older Indian gold sometimes used cadmium-bearing solder, marked KDM, which is now banned on health grounds.

When you are buying

Look closely at where a bail meets a pendant and where a shank meets a setting. Those are the joins that carry load and the ones that fail.

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