Bidri
A Deccan craft from Bidar: silver inlaid into a blackened zinc alloy, giving bright metal against matt black.
The body is cast in a zinc and copper alloy, engraved, inlaid with fine silver wire or sheet, then treated with a soil paste that turns the alloy permanently black while leaving the silver bright.
The soil traditionally comes from Bidar fort, and the blackening is a chemical reaction rather than a coating, so it does not wear off.
It holds a Geographical Indication tag and appears in Hyderabadi jewellery, boxes and accessories.
When you are buying
Real bidri is black through the metal, not painted on. Look at a worn edge: if a scratch shows grey or yellow underneath, it is a copy.
Deccan craft pieces
A few from the collection, from ₹1,200.
The Moonrise Ring
Lustrous Gold Finish Pendant Accentuated With 7mm Oval White Pearl
Twirled Knot Pendant Accentuated With 7mm Oval White Pearl & CZ
Rich Red Faux-leather & White Pearl Bracelet
Bright Sky-Blue Faux-leather & Peach Pearl Bracelet
Fun Orange Faux-leather & White Pearl Bracelet
Stylish pearl pendant and earrings set 1
Stretchable Light Grey Button Pearls Bracelet
Nizami Jewellery
The court style of the Nizams of Hyderabad: pearls in abundance, emeralds, and Persian-influenced form.
Meenakari
Coloured enamel fused into engraved metal, most often on the reverse of kundan jewellery.
Oxidised Silver
Silver deliberately darkened to bring out detail. In Indian markets the term is also used loosely for base-metal tribal jewellery.
Thewa
A Rajasthani craft that fuses pierced sheet gold onto coloured glass, producing a stained-glass effect.