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Pure Pearls Glossary

Filigree

Clasps & ConstructionAlso called filigree work, jali, tarkashi

Lacework made from fine twisted wire, soldered into openwork patterns. Light for its size.

Filigree is built from drawn wire twisted and curled into a pattern, then soldered together, either on a backing or as freestanding lace.

Because it is mostly air, a large filigree piece weighs a fraction of a solid one of the same size.

In India the technique reaches its height in Odisha's Cuttack tarkashi, in silver so fine it is almost thread.

When you are buying

Filigree is fragile in one specific way: it bends and cannot easily be bent back without cracking a solder joint. Store it flat, in its own box.

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